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Last modified: 15 Oct. 2015                          WEB MASTER        

I think this one is important because I have seen a number of people doing this wrong.

How to properly light a WW II single burner gas stove.  M-1944. Short ,unpainted tank, three leg, three fold out pot holders, wrench clipped to outside of burner assembly.

Supposition is that the stove is in good working order with no pressure or fuel leaks.

Make sure the pump/fuel cap is screwed closed.

There is a small lever on the side of the burner assembly which is connected to the burner orifice cleaning wire. Move the lever up and down a few times to clear the orifice. Leave the lever in the up position.

Pump up the tank with about ten pumps.

Open the fuel valve knob and allow some fuel to leak out onto the burner assembly and down into the ring around the burner. Just enough to get it "wet" not drippy. Close the fuel valve.

Light the fuel on the burner. It will flare up with a yellow flame. Hence the nick name for these stoves of "Flame Thrower".

As the fuel begins to burn down you will start to see the bluish flame begin to form. The burner will start it's characteristic roar. Start opening the fuel valve slowly to feed more fuel.

You may have to pump the tank up a few times to keep the flame going.

Once the flame is burning blue and the burner "roaring" open the fuel valve all the way.

It takes some practice and a bit of fooling around to get the hang of it.

I have used both Coleman fuel and white gas in my stoves. White gas is available at Amoco stations if you can find one. Use regular. I think they run a bit better on the white gas but the Coleman fuel works just as well. DO NOT RUN E-85!

G.I. Stove identifcaion and comparison page.

Problems and solutions for the M1944 single burner field stove. Also called a squad stove. Short unpainted tank, three feet, three pot supports, check valve in pump, tip cleaner lever.
These Instructions are not for Coleman 530 or 520 tall single burner stoves

My pump won't pump up the tank.
The pump works very easily with no friction and does not seem to be compressing air.
The pump piston has a leather seal which may have dried out.
Remove the pump from the tank.
Grasp the knurled cap in one hand, grasp the pump barrel in the other.
While holding the knurled cap still, pull away from it slightly and turn the pump barrel.
The pump barrel should unscrew from the cap. Pull the barrel completely off the plunger.
At the bottom of the plunger there is a leather cup. If this cup is dry and not flexible it will have to be oiled.
A few drops of light oil should be applied to the cup and gently worked in to the leather.
Put the plunger back into the barrel being careful to position the leather cup correctly the way it came out and screw the barrel back into the knurled cap.
Try the pump. You should feel resistance and air should be coming out of the check valve at the bottom of the pump.

The pump is hard to pump, won't go to the bottom of the stroke. The tank won't pump up.
Remove the pump from the tank and push on the plunger. Air should come out of the check valve at the bottom of the pump. If not the check valve is stuck or the hole from the pump is stopped up.
Using a 5/16" wrench unscrew the check valve from the pump barrel. WARNING!!! As the check valve comes out be sure to catch any small parts which may fall out. There is a VERY small spring and plunger which might fall out. Lose them and you are screwed!
Push the pump plunger. Air should come out of the hole in the bottom of the pump barrel where you remover the check valve. If not, and there is still resistance then there is something blocking the hole.
You will have to remove the plunger from the barrel and clean out the barrel. See above "My pump won't pump up the tank."
If air comes out of the hole then the problem is probably with the little check valve.
The check valve consists of four parts.
The check valve body. What you unscrewed from the pump barrel
The check valve plunger. Look in the threaded end of the check valve body. The little black piece is the end of the plunger. If no black piece the seal is missing.
The check valve seal.
The check valve spring.
Many times crud and gunk from old gas or old seal material will cause the check valve to stick shut. The check valve plunger has to be removed from the body and cleaned.
This is a delicate operation if your check valve seal is still in place and usable. I use a straight pin or similar small pointed tool to gently coax the plunger out of the body. Push it in through the hole in end of the check valve and gently push the check valve plunger out of the body. Watch out for the spring and plunger. They are very small and easily lost. They might pop out under the spring pressure.
Clean off any dirt or crud on the plunger and the inside of the valve body.
When reassembled the plunger should move freely up and down against the spring.
If the seal is missing or bad you can TRY the spare parts kit in the air pump plunger. Unfortunately most of the old spare seals are decomposed to goo. I have heard of people making this little piece
out of neoprene but it is extremely small and difficult to make.
Screw the reassembled check valve back into the pump barrel and push the pump plunger down. Air should come out of the hole in the end of the check valve. If not repeat the above.
Screw the air pump back into the tank and try pumping up the tank. If fuel or vapors come out of the little hole in the pump then the check valve is not holding.
The check valve may now be stuck open.
Disassemble and make sure the check valve plunger is not sticking open.
The check valve seal is shot. Replace the seal. Sorry I can't be any more help on that one but at that point I'd be stuck too.

Where the heck is the spare parts kit on the M-1944 stove?
It is located in the pump plunger.
Remove the pump from the stove.
Grasp the knurled knob on the pump in one hand, grasp the pump body in the other.
While holding the knurled cap still, pull away from it slightly and turn the barrel.
The pump barrel should unscrew from the knurled cap.
Hold the pump plunger and unscrew the pump handle from the pump plunger. The knurled nut and spring will come off. Note positions for reassembly.
In the pump plunger are the following:
Spare packing for the fuel valve knob shaft, new gasket for the pump to the tank, spare generator and clearing needle, spare seal for the pump check valve.
Most of the gaskets have turned to gunk after fifty plus years. The generators usually still work but you have to destroy the other parts to get them out. There should be another spare generator clipped
clipped to the burner with what appears to be the replacement packing for the generator cleaning lever.
Unfortunately as of this writing no adequate substitutes have been found for most of the gaskets and packings.
To reassemble the pump:
Slide the spring back over the pump plunger, then the knurled nut.
Screw the pump handle back into the pump plunger.
Screw the plunger back into the pump barrel.

What all does the attached wrench fit?
Most of the nuts on the stove. However getting that weird little wrench on the particular nut at times seems impossible.
I don't use the attached wrench if I can help it.

My stove won't build or hold pressure:
You have a pressure leak somewhere.
Check the following.
Pump to tank gasket. In the spare parts kit. Sometimes they are usable but don't count on it.
Pump check valve. See Above.
Fuel control knob shaft packing. Tighten with 9/16" wrench or wrench  that comes with stove. You can actually get the provided wrench on this nut easily! Do not tighten hard. The fuel control knob 
should require a firm hand but not a pair of pliers to move.
Tip Cleaner lever packing. Tighten with a 5/8" wrench. Once again the lever should move firmly.
Leak where burner is screwed into the tank. Major tear down. Think seriously of display only.
Hole in tank. Stove is for display only. Once they get this bad they are more dangerous then usual.

Lantern info and parts sources:

Old Colman Parts.com - Supplied the manual below, Thanks!!!

Old Town Coleman Center.com

TB QM 47  / TO 19-10-27 Dated June 1945. It has good exploded ( sorry for the pun ) diagrams and a short trouble shooting guide at the end.

"J" generator maintenance.
There is none. except clearing the absolutely tiny hole in the brass end. I have tried to remove the white packing from the "J" tube but it is hell getting it back in. I have been told that because these tubes are aluminum they will corrode internally even in new packaging. So you might install a new generator and the absolutely small hole will clog up quickly.

One hint from the Coleman Collectors Club is to run a capful of a product called "Sea Foam" in with your fuel when you refill. It cleans things out a bit ands keeps the internal parts from corroding. I don't know if it will clear a fouled "J" tube.

As of this writing, on Ebay if you go under Collectibles, Militaria, WW II, Military Stoves there is someone selling replacement labels for the tall early stove and a few items down he is also selling reproduction manuals for the tall stove. Hope this helps out. Be careful and don't burn your fingers.

Has the direction label gone off your WW II gas stove? Someone on ebay is selling reproductions. Look WW II Coleman stove. You might have to scroll down a bit to find them. Price is about $6.50 plus handling. There are two different styles. I ordered one of each. Just the thing for your original stove or a mock-up M-48 stove. Clean the O.D. paint off the tank and stick on one of these labels.

I hope this information is helpful to my fellow reenactors!!

Bill "Fire God "Jeffers
WW II gas burning device information or how to use and maintain your WWII Coleman Stove and Lantern gathered by:

Bill "The Fire God" Jeffers