The Authenticity Committee (AC) is made up of several unit members who volunteered to devise the following standards, which the unit is to abide by. The standards are active, which means that they will always be periodically revised to better enhance WWII reenacting.

Authenticity is defined as being genuine or real. This implies not only having authentic equipment, but also looking and acting the part. We need to know how to understand formations, manual of arms, proper treatment of officers (saluting and speaking respectfully, and obey commands), in the spirit of the soldiers of WWII, etc.

Our organization portrays a variety of units that were part of the 1^st Infantry Division during the Second World War. However, we still need some sort of guidelines for our unit members to use when putting together an impression. As long as you are a member, you are to abide by these standards. When diversifying a display, check with the Authenticity Committee to make sure your display falls within our goals as a unit. This will be an AC group decision/vote, not a one-person approval.

Women in Reenacting: When participating in static or living history events, women are to be portrayed as they were assigned in WWII. Women can participate in tacticals if they reenact the part of a partisan, not an American GI. See the Authenticity Committee members for ideas, suggestions, and/or approval for ways of reenacting. Nurse’s Corp and WAC information is listed further below.

General Note: Original equipment, approved reproductions, approved post war dated, and approved foreign items can be used. If the items are for display, where you can see the dates, then only original WWII dated or approved reproductions are acceptable. An example would be having a post war dated canteen in the cover as opposed to the outside of the cover where the date can be seen.

10 Foot Rule: This is a general rule we plan to use whereas if a member looks good from 10 feet away, then they’re OK with their impression.

FM 21-100 Soldiers Handbook, July 23, 1941: (required) this is the standard handbook issued by the army describing everything from army ranks to first aid. WWII dated books are readily available.

Haircut: Is to be short in neck area and sides so that it does not touch the ears. Top may be longer, but not long enough to cover the eyes.

Facial Hair:

Body piercing: All visible body piercings of any kind must be removed.

1. Wool Garrison (Overseas) Cap with proper piping or no piping, see below.

2. M1937 Enlisted Men’s OD Trousers

3. M1937 Enlisted Men’s Flannel OD Shirt

4. Enlisted Men’s Web Belt, M1937

5. Service Boots: see below.

6. Leggings, M1938 when wearing ankle boots.

7. Under shirts: White, pea green crew T-shirts, or pea green sleeveless (Historical Note, US troops were not permitted to take white tee shirts with them during Operation Overlord or other missions after 1944. Their gear was checked and if they had a white tee shirt packed it was taken from them.)

1. Original

2. Repro with tight weave Six Panel version (non Korean War version)

Note about the overseas cap: piping is preferred but not required. If piping is used, it should be representative of your branch insignia (Infantry, MP, Medical, etc.), with appropriate Distinctive Unit Insignia (D.U.I.)

HBT Cap: should be the "short brimmed" WWII style or Daisy May.

Front or rear seam steel pot must have sewn-on straps (no metal clips permitted).

Can have fixed or swivel bales

Can have smooth or cork finish, but should be a dark OD paint

Can have large or small holed netting, scrim, burlap, rubber band, or white cloth for camouflage.

Can have the outside painted with 1^st Division, MP, Medic, Chaplain, or Officer Insignia. The back of the helmet should have the vertical stripe of a CO, or horizontal strip of an NCO if applicable.

Preferably a WWII liner, especially for display, but can use a post war or foreign liner in the field and encampment as long as no one can see it under the helmet. Liner chinstrap is required.

1.18 oz. wool serge, M1944

2. HBT: M41, M42, with metal 13 star buttons

Socks: should be OD when wearing Class A or Class B, white sweat socks are fine as long as they’re hidden.

Tie: khaki and tucked in the shirt between the 2^nd and 3^rd button hole, worn with Class A or Class B uniforms

Cartridge Belt – M-1918, M-1923 when armed with M1 or M1903 Rifle

M-1937 BAR Magazine Belt when armed with M1918 Browning Automatic Rifle

M-1910 or M-1928 Haversack (preferred)

M-1910 Canteen, aluminum or stainless steel with metal or plastic cap

M-1910 Canteen Cup, aluminum or stainless steel

Mess Kit: with GI issued knife fork and spoon

First Aid Pouch: doesn’t need to have a bandage, but shouldn’t look flat. (It is highly recommended that you store your medical information card in this pouch for easy location.)

Ankle length boots: rough out or smooth, with black soles without a heavy cleat pattern. Colors of the leather should be Corcoran or dark brown. Try to find shoes with round eyelets.

2-buckle (M1943) Boot (can use French double buckles for field tactical s only)

Jump boots, with leggings or around encampment if pant legs cover them such as in the barracks at FIG

4 or 5 buckle rubber overshoes

Shoe packs

Low quarter shoes for Class A, Class B, or barrack dress

1^st Division Patch: worn on left sleeve ½ inch from top seam, on wool shirts and all jackets/coats. No other patches are permitted on the right sleeve.

Rank: worn half way between shoulder and elbow on both sleeves of wool shirt and all jackets/coats. Everyone starts as a private.

Branch Disc: worn on left collar and U.S. Disc worn on right collar on Class A coats/jackets

D.U.I. Pin: worn on overseas cap on left side. (also worn on lower part of lapel for EM and on Shoulder Tabs for Officer’s Class A uniform)

Sleeping Bag: need not be WWII, but if it isn’t, cover up with a blanket or use a military sleeping bag shell.

Wool blanket, at least (2), OD

Cot: wooden frame, OD or khaki canvas cover preferred (if not canvas, then cover fabric with a blanket)

II. Firearms (long barreled): no light colored birch stocks, must be stained dark walnut or equivalent.

III. Pistols

IV. Slings & Holsters: Brown Leather or canvas appropriate to the weapon

OPTIONAL ITEMS-expanded from the above basic items

Mackinaw: all 3 styles

ETO Wool Jacket (This coat was issued to the BRO)

4 Buckle Rubber Overshoes (galoshes)

Vest, Knitted OD: V-neck or crew neck

Sweater, Knitted OD: 5 button and V-neck. If brown post war is used, it must be under a coat.

Scarf, wool OD

Gloves, wool OD with or without leather palms, Brown Leather with Wool OD Inserts

Mittens, wool OD with shooting finger

Leather work gloves, smooth light brown, similar to GI gloves issued to maintenance personnel

Various head covers are OK to wear under the helmet as long as they’re period correct. Examples: winter tanker helmet, M41 or M43 hood, wool knitted balaclava, gas mask hood

Raincoat or poncho: enlisted man’s raincoat or a poncho without a hood. WWII ponchos didn’t have hoods, just a "turtle neck" style collar. A post war poncho can be worn, but the hood is to be tucked in at the neck, or have the hood modified to a WWII style.

Gas Mask Bag: M1A2 (early kidney) or M6 (late "light weight" style)

Entrenching Tool: M1910 "T" handled or 1943 Swivel Head

Pick/mattock: M1910

Wire cutters: M1938

Hatchet (Small Axe): M1910

Shaving kit: with items similar to those of the WWII era. Many soldiers used civilian items from home such as shavers, shaving brushes, toothbrush, etc.

Sewing kit: volunteers back in the states made many of these.

Towels and washcloths: should be OD

Knives: M3 Combat/Trench Knife, WWI brass knuckle trench knife, signal corps pocketknife, airborne pocketknife, various pocket and hunting knives from that era. Can also use pocketknives liberated from the enemy in the field, but should not bring to formations.

Cigarette Lighters: WWII era/style Ronson, Zippo, or liberated enemy models

Wrist/pocket watches: GI issued original/repro models, civilian style watches from that era. No modern watches!

Eyeglasses: wire-framed WWII GI issued P3: made by American Optical (Ful-Vue) or the round frame model, (Windsor Style)

Dog Tags: notched WWII design, Original Style Chain or Cord Style Preferred

P38 can opener

Same as basic uniform, only with a tie and without leggings

Low quarter shoes, but can also wear ankle length and jumper boots as long as the pant legs cover them.

UNITS PORTRAYED: All follow the basic uniform requirement and personal appearance described above

Light Blue Piping on overseas cap

MP Brassard: Worn on left arm

Big Red One Insignia painted on front of helmet

Yellow MP markings painted on helmet (Divisional MP’s)

Yellow and Green piping on overseas cap

Brass Whistle with chain (OD Plastic Whistles issued in 1943)

Yellow Piping on overseas cap

D.U.I. (1^st Division NCBU, DUI <Victory Angel>)

Suit Working: One piece Herringbone Twill (HBT Coveralls), 13 star buttons

HBT Mechanics Cap: should be the "short brimmed" WWII style

Crimson &Yellow Piping on overseas cap

1^st Engineer Combat Battalion D.U.I.

Red Cross on White Brassard worn on left arm

Crimson and white piping on overseas Cap

All other items are the same except anything that’s weapon related.

For further reading/research, see the following web sites: